The Castle in the Woods – Parco Aymerich in Laconi

An enchanted forest, a zen den and a medieval castle. Magical plants and maybe even a princess and a dragon. Parco Aymerich is a park with more treasures than what is given away from the outside

When you enter the park it is like stepping into a different world. Away from the hustle and bustle and into calm. 

There are very tall trees that meet at the top, high up and cover everything. It’s a lush forest with wild olive trees and tall oak trees that cover the sun almost totally and you walk in a shadow land. 

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There’s a soft path with sand to walk on, lined with smaller stones and pebbles. In parts there’s a handrail in wood. There’s moss and fern growing on the rocks, the roots and on the tree-trunks. There’s something growing everywhere in fact, with dark, green, calm colours. Some places it is even covering the waterfalls that are here.

Fairies And Magical Creatures

There are several little streams of crystal clear water, trickling cheerfully down. In fact, there seems to be water trickling several places. The sign by the park entrance said there is an abundance of natural springs here. That explains the presence of water. There are small natural pools and waterfalls, falling over the rocks together with the narrow, spidery roots of the surrounding bushes.

There’s a beautiful, partially moss covered, little drinking basin (although I do not know if the water is safe to drink). The whole atmosphere is one of an enchanted forest. All sounds are absorbed by the vegetation. It’s the kind of place where you would not have been surprised if a fairy buzzed past or you saw glittering wings by the drinking basin. Or magical creatures in the under-growth. 

The magical atmosphere makes you walk calmly around so as not to disturb this place of natural zen (or whatever sleeping, magical creatures there are close by).

Cedar trees

Following the path through parts of the park, walking up and around a bend to yet another tiny waterfall. Here there’s a tiny path and some steps so you can see the waterfall up close. Continuing along the path it flattens out a bit to a more open area at the top. 

Here there’s a little kiosk, selling Italian coffee, and ice cream of course, plus some snacks. There’s seating under some large, tall and mature cedar trees, which, according to the signpost; come from Lebanon. 

From here you can continue along the calm, sandy zen path through the park. More waterfalls, streams, moss, large and small rocks and enchanted trees and forest.

Or you can go downhill slightly and enter Aymerich castle. Of course such a magical forest has a castle! I would not have been surprised if they even have a dragon and a princess somewhere.

To enter you walk through an arched entrance with a barrel vaulted ceiling that leads to a courtyard.

Curious Markings And Very Old Stones

On the right side of the vaulted passage there are some carvings on one of the stones. It has not yet been completely deciphered, but it refers to the presence of a door and includes a date: 1053 (see Facts & Particulars below)

The markings on the stone was probably a part of another building, now long gone. Because the structures we see today are constructions from the 13th century.

Aymerich castle was built with the aim of defending the Kingdom of Arborea from the Kingdom of Cagliari. And to keep an eye on the border between the two. Obviously this was hot property as the castle was claimed by each of these two governments.

Everything And The Kitchen Sink

The castle’s tower is of Spanish origin, and it was turned into a prison in the 18th century. The castle’s main building is a two storey rectangular structure. The doors and windows are embellished with Catalan-Gothic frames and they must have been a magnificent sight in their day. The aristocratic residents lived on the upper floor and the servants on the lower.

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From the upper floor there’s fantastic view over the lowland and flats to the South. There’s still a carved seat under the window, so even today you can sit and gaze across the land. Whether it is to look for an invading army, a dragon or just to admire lush, green hills and land.

Mesmerising Medieval Church Bells

As we were walking back down through the park under the shadow of the tall trees, the bells at the church of Sant Ambrogio E Sant Ignazio, next to this part of the park, started to chime. Calling out for evening prayer. 

The sound of the bells adds to the medieval, magical, fairytale feeling of the place. The church bells call out to you and I would have loved to pop in there too, but Sardinia man is more keen on a coffee. 

The curious name – Monkey kiosk

We head for the little green area in the middle of Laconi. To the tiny park Piazza XXV Aprile, where the kiosk with the curious name ‘Monkey kiosk, Cocktail and Dream’ beckons us. 

The kiosk, and the outdoor seating under the trees in the tiny park, is overlooking the farming lowlands below. Now all bathing in the light of the afternoon sun. The kiosk proprietor is a friendly guy who speaks a little English, which always delights a foreigner like me. 

We sit in quiet contemplation eating Cornetto ice cream, I think of fairies, castles and magical forests.

I never saw the dragon nor the princess, but I’m sure they must be in there somewhere. Maybe next time.

Lots of love,

Bee

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Facts & Particulars:

Aymerich park is Sardinia’s largest urban park and botanical collection of  rare plants. It is located in the small town of Laconi, on the border between the provinces of Oristano and Nuoro. About 1,5 hours drive from the capital Cagliari.

The creator of the park was Don Ignazio Ayermich Ripoli. A botanist who collected plants on his travels abroad in the mid-1800s. According to the information I gathered there is a wide variety of orchids deeper into the park.

The castle ruins we see today are medieval, the construction method and style belongs to the thirteenth century. The castle was the residence of the Aymerich family, marquises of Laconi, from the 17th century, hence the name Aymerich castle.

But there’s been a castle/building here for a very long time. One of the stones in the vaulted passage/gate has the date 1053 plus some other markings (still undeciphered) stamped on it. The passage is not from 1035 so this stone is likely reused from a former building on the same site. 

The park is open all year around. It opens at 8:00, but the closing time depends on the time of the year. In the winter I believe it closes at 16:00.

Link to the official tourist site

Not far from Laconi you’ll find the fascinating place of Santa Cristina’s well, a mind-boggling place.