Hiking Punta La Marmora – Sardinia’s highest mountain

On Sardinia’s roof – a hike to the highest mountain on Sardinia. A ‘walk in the park’ that turned into more of an adventure than any of us imagined. Cows with fluffy ears, scary wasps and spiders. Unpredictable weather and a tumble down the ski-slope. But even so, being on the roof of Sardinia – Punta La Marmora – was totally worth it (maps and Garmin print at the bottom of this post).

Did you know Sardinia has a ski-lift and a ski slope? I certainly didn’t! Skiing is NOT the image that springs to mind when you think about Sardinia. But they do, all 3,3 km of it (and for a Mediterranean island I guess that’s pretty good). Bruncu Spina (the ski slope) is also one of the hiking gateways to the highest mountain on Sardinia, Punta La Marmora (1834 meters above sea level – m.a.s.l).

On a clear and bright day in the early autumn, Punta La Marmora was our destination for a day of ‘easy’ hiking. Starting at the base of Bruncu Spina at 1570 m.a.s.l it would not be a very strenuous climb to reach the top of Punta La Marmora. More like a ‘walk in the park’.

Wild life: Free-range cows with fluffy ears

Due to work on the ski-lift (therefore the path was closed) we had to make a 2km detour. Easy enough on a rough gravel road winding up the hill to the top of the ski-lift at Bruncu Spina. Plenty of free-range cows up here, so for somebody with a fear of cows it was a little unnerving. But by the time we reached the top I had walked passed so many cows with fluffy ears it went from being very scary to ‘just keeping an eye on them’. At the top of Bruncu Spina the gravel road ended and a path was taking us South along the ridge of the mountain.  

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Up here at 1828 m.a.s.l it was a tad cooler so even on a warm September day trousers and a wind jacket were needed. Some fluffy white clouds could be seen floating across the sky. And in the distance, the light tinkling of the cow bells, but otherwise everything was quiet and peaceful. 

Silly billy – spooked by spiders and ants

Until a swarm of what looked like black, flying ant-wasps made me jump as they whizzed passed.  Seconds later a bunch of cool-looking, black and red spiders suddenly appeared and spooked me! 

At first glance I thought they must be poisonous. I didn’t want to sit down to eat lunch with spiders and chose to stand eating my gorgeous panini from the cool, supermarket in Fonni (it was like a labyrinth). Until reason made me understand these spiders were a different kind than the poisonous ones and not at all scary. Strangely enough this place on the roof of Sardinia also had many, many ladybirds.

Arcu Gennargentu – the Silver Pass

We continued following the Gennargentu ridge of the mountain for about 4km. Through a rocky area and then descending down to a little valley – more specifically, the pass of Arcu Gennargentu (at 1659 m.a.s.l). From here the ascent up to Punta La Marmora starts on a very rocky path, almost like stairs in places (stairway to heaven springs to mind). 

On this path you are a little hidden behind the nearest mountain top (Punta Scisciu) so we did not see that the clouds were thickening up a tad in the West.

The path is now winding up and up towards the top. When you reach another ridge you can finally see the large stainless steel cross at the top of Punta La Marmora a few meters ahead. 

On the top of Sardinia!

At this point nobody had time to look around too much, the full focus was on the destination and the large cross. With increased speed and renewed enthusiasm we headed for the cross.

Finally on the top of Sardinia! Up here and looking around we now saw the VERY grey and black clouds in the near distance. With this wind direction this weather would go straight for us. The top of a mountain in thunder is NOT a good place to be! 

Oh no! Bad weather rolling in fast!

Neither is it a smart place to be when you have low, foggy clouds that would engulf a mountain of 1800 m.a.s.l. Particularly considering we had to walk along a mountain ridge at this elevation going back. 

Walking in fog – on a mountain ridge – not a good idea. So we said ‘run’! And run we did! Down the rocky path, across the tiny valley, up the rocky path on the other side. Then followed along the 4km mountain ridge towards Bruncu Spina.

I could hear the thunder coming closer and closer. But trying to ignore the flashes of lightning I saw at the corner of my eye. 

The foggy clouds kept creeping closer and closer. The mountain that a short while ago had been a peaceful, sunny place with ladybirds and tinkling cow bells was now a dark and ominous place.

I fell twice, flying forwards with my backpack shooting over my head, water-bottle and camera tumbling out. But scrambled back up as fast as I could muster. When we finally reached the top of Bruncu Spina wisps of clouds were drifting over us and it was dark, grey and much colder. 

Flying down the ski-slope ….without skis

This being the first place we could descend we went straight for it. Down the ski-slope! The steepest hill I have ever walked, if you can call it walking. It was more zig-zagging down in free fall. My toes were hurting inside the boots!  

The 3 workers at the bottom of the Bruncu Spina ski-lift looked a little surprised at seeing dishevelled hikers barging down the hill (and in an area that, strictly speaking, was closed to the public). But politely enough they only commented on how unpredictable the weather could be up here. Telling us they had experienced thunder and lightning here every afternoon this last week.

The rest was just a stroll along the road. With a few blisters and sore toes and shivering muscles (from flying downhill), the rain started to fall as we reached the car. Driving down the winding road, passing more cows with fluffy ears, I could mull over the hike.

Need to go back again – to take it all in, calmly

Even if the weather turned a bit and we had to run, it had been a glorious hike in an extraordinary landscape. I need to go back to Punta La Marmora. The scenery is gorgeous and I want to be able to enjoy a tea break on the top and admire the majestic mountain view. And when I am ready, have a calm walk back down and arrive at the bottom without the dishevelled look. But instead full of mountain zen and calm.

For anyone wanting to stay in the area I can recommend the Agriturismo Parco Donnortei (a hotel with a park, a swimming pool, and all all meals if you book in advance) which is very close to Bruncu Spina. Or the little mountain town of Fonni is just 20-30 minutes away by car. Hotel Sa Orte in Fonni has a restaurant with the same name. 

Sa Orte’s ‘Gnocchi di Fonnese’ (Sardinian pasta shapes in tomato sauce with pork meat), combined with a cool, white Sardinian Vermentino was an excellent end to an adventurous day up Punta La Marmora.

Lots of love,

Bee

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Link to a post about experiences during the Sardinian carnival celebrations which has long traditions in the mountain parts of Sardinia

Facts & Particulars, Insights and Info:

Punta La Marmora is Sardinia’s highest point and is a part of the Gennargentu Mountain Range. This is the highest mountain range on the island (and also a national park). It is located almost in the middle of Sardinia (just a little to the East).

Along this ridge you have 5 of Sardinia’s highest summits. Bruncu Spina (1828 m.a.s.l), Punta Paulinu (1792 m.a.s.l), Arcu Gennargentu, Punta Sciusciu (1823 m.a.s.l), Punta La Marmora (1833 m.a.s.l) and Punta Florisa (1822 m.a.s.l). The pass Arcu Gennargentu gave name to the whole mountain range. The name means ‘silver pass’

From up here you can see Sardinia’s second highest mountain range the Supramonte (to the North  East). The surrounding landscape is very barren, not much vegetation, mostly rocks and stones.

There are a few paths and starting points to reach Punta La Marmora. There are hiking web sites both in Italian and English (maybe also in other languages) with path suggestions.

It is easy to think (as I experienced) that this is the Mediterranean and the weather will be nice and warm all day. But it is a mountain and choice of clothing needs to reflect that (check the weather forecast). And bring the suncream and a hat!! The sun is really strong at 1800 m.a.s.l.